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Sofia Werner
She lives year-round in a cabin without running water
Can you really live in a cabin without running water all year round?
That’s the question we ask ourselves as we travel to Handöl in western Jämtland to meet TV photographer and mountain guide Sofie Werner. Sofie lives in a former summer barn of just 29 square meters—renovated by herself. But what is it really like to live in a cabin located 500 meters from the nearest road during winter? A cabin without running water or sewage. How do you even dare to take that step? Sofie’s life motto is “Life is best lived outdoors,” and she truly lives by it. But how does she think about material choices when spending so much time in nature? And what are her best tips for staying warm?
Hi Sofie! Tell us—how do you live here?
“I live in an old summer barn that I’ve renovated myself. I’ve been living here for almost seven years now. The cabin is 29 square meters, and I live quite simply. I’ve installed electricity, but I don’t have running water or sewage.”
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Since housing in this area can be quite expensive, I chose this summer barn instead. I had to compromise quite a bit on my original goals of having a mountain view and being close to water. At first, I was a bit disappointed when I moved here because I didn’t have that perfect mountain view—but with every storm that comes through, I’m very grateful to be more sheltered here in the forest. When it’s roaring outside and it feels like the roof might lift off, you can only imagine what it’s like up on the bare mountain.
How do you manage water?
“I have a stream on the property where I collect water for washing and cleaning. For drinking water, I fill up containers. I’ve also built a sauna with a wood-fired heater that can warm up 30 liters of water.
When I moved in, having a toilet was a priority—partly for hygiene, but also because it’s nice not to have to go outside in a snowstorm. I got an incinerating toilet. Think of it like a coffee maker. You put a small filter in the toilet, do your business, and then press a button. Everything is burned at 600 degrees. It’s incredibly cool! And the fact that it’s a Swedish invention manufactured in Norway is kind of fun. I really like things that are locally produced and sustainable in every way.”
Do you feel like many people dream about living the way you do?
“Yes, actually—many people come here and say they dream about it. But there are also quite a few who actually make it happen once they see that it’s possible. Every now and then, people reach out and say, ‘We dared to move after talking to you.’ It’s really nice to be able to inspire others.”
What’s the most common question you get from people who dream about living like this?
“It’s a lot of practical questions, but where I do my laundry is probably the most common one.”
So—where do you do your laundry?
“Haha, well, I wash by hand using soap, and it works just fine. I also do some laundry when I’m out working or when I visit my sister outside Umeå. Then I bring things like bed linen—stuff that’s harder to wash by hand. And honestly, you don’t need to wash everything that often. Wool clothes, for example, I just hang out to air.”
“But the hardest part about living like this is actually finding a place to live—at least here in western Jämtland. I know many people who want to move to Handöl, but there are no houses available. There are only cabins that people use a few weeks a year. I think that’s really unfortunate. It’s a problem that goes hand in hand with villages not staying alive.”
You run something called Strövtåg. What is that?
“Yes, that’s right. Strövtåg is pretty much what it sounds like—we organize mountain experiences. It’s about wandering, exploring local traditions, food, and history, combined with curiosity and time spent in the mountains. I want to show others what I call my backyard.
I’ve done tours focused on local food—what I call ‘Foodie hikes.’ Right now, I’m developing some new ideas and concepts. This summer, there will probably be more focus on overnight stays, nature experiences, and local culture, and maybe a bit less on hiking itself. Many of the people who come here live in big cities. In the 1800s, so-called ‘fresh air guests’ came to Storlien and Åre from newly industrialized cities to recover their health and breathe mountain air. Maybe that’s something we should bring back—because people come here today for the same reason: to experience nature, relax, and get fresh air.”
You spend a lot of time outdoors—how do you think about clothing and materials?
“I prefer natural materials in the products I use. They’re the most sustainable over time, and above all, they keep you the warmest. Nothing beats down, wool, or real leather when it’s -30°C. People can say what they want about fleece and polyester—but for me, it’s about both practicality and durability.”
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“My grandmother worked as a seamstress at Ullfrotté. I usually say I was born straight into Ullfrotté—I’ve spent my whole life in these garments. For example, I don’t own any other socks than Woolpower. I can’t wear cotton, because when my feet sweat in cotton, they get ice cold.
My grandmother always brought home second-quality garments from the factory. Once I got a pair of 200-gram long johns where one leg was full length and the other stopped at the knee—that was second sorting back then. But they were warm, and I remember wearing them well into my teenage years. Since my grandmother always brought clothes home, Ullfrotté just became the norm for me.”
Do you have a Woolpower memory you’d like to share?
“Haha, yes! I had a pretty funny experience when I was in Costa Rica filming Mitt i naturen for a month. Of course, I wore my wool base layers—even though we were deep in the jungle with about 99% humidity and temperatures around 35°C. Everyone thought I was completely crazy wearing wool next to my skin.
What many people don’t realize is that wool isn’t just great for keeping you warm—it’s also fantastic for staying cool in hot conditions. My colleague wasn’t wearing wool. He had a synthetic shirt that he wore for 31 days straight. He smelled absolutely terrible! I, on the other hand, just smelled a bit like sheep—as you do after a while when you’ve been sweating in wool without washing it. At that point, I really wished I had an extra wool shirt to give him—just to escape the smell!”
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About Sofie
Profession:
TV photographer and mountain guide
Age:
35
Favorite Woolpower garment:
That’s a bit of a tricky one—my first thought is the classic 200g Ullfrotté base layer. But what I actually like the most are the wool underwear, the knee-length ones in LITE. Wool underwear is really underrated.
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