Responsibility from Sheep to Finished Garment

Step 1: Wool from Merino Sheep

Merino wool from South America

The wool in our garments comes from merino sheep grazing in Uruguay and the Argentine part of Patagonia. Merino sheep are known for their fine and soft wool, making it especially suitable for garments worn close to the skin.

Quality shaped by animal care and environment

The quality of the wool is greatly influenced by how the sheep are raised and the environment they live in. Access to food and water, climate, rainfall, soil quality, vegetation, and stress levels all play an important role.

Fiber diameter, measured in microns, is also crucial. Fine wool typically ranges between 14–23 microns. The finer the fiber, the softer the garment feels against the skin. Another important characteristic is the wool’s natural crimp. Merino wool has around 40 crimps per centimeter, allowing it to trap a large amount of air and provide excellent insulation.

A natural performance material

The combination of fine fibers and high crimp makes merino wool particularly well suited for base layers and garments worn closest to the body. The material is soft, flexible, and offers excellent thermal insulation thanks to the air trapped between the fibers.

Animal welfare in focus

Using wool comes with a responsibility for animal welfare. We require that the farms producing our wool follow the IWTO’s five freedoms for animal welfare. This means that the sheep must be free from hunger and thirst, discomfort, pain and disease, fear and distress, and must be able to express their natural behaviors.

All our wool is 100% mulesing-free. We source wool from Uruguay and Argentina, where mulesing does not occur.

Professional shearing for the well-being of the sheep

Merino sheep need to be sheared at least once a year to stay healthy. Depending on the climate, they may be sheared up to three times over two years. Shearing is carried out by professional shearers working in the sheep’s natural environment to avoid unnecessary stress.

The wool is removed in one piece and carefully sorted before being sold on for processing into yarn.

Step 2:Purchasing and Washing Wool

We use around 300 tonnes of wool each year in our products. The wool we purchase has been washed, dyed, and processed into finished yarn in Europe.

The first step in the process from raw wool to yarn is the sourcing and washing of the wool.

Wool sourcing

In Uruguay and Argentina, the wool is purchased by so-called combing mills, which maintain close relationships with the farms and visit them annually. During these visits, inspections are carried out to ensure that the animals are well cared for and that the farms follow the IWTO’s guidelines for animal husbandry and welfare. Once everything has been verified and meets the requirements, the mills purchase the wool from the farmers.

The wool then undergoes quality testing in laboratories to remove dirty or weak fibers that cannot be used. Among other things, micron count, fiber length, and color are evaluated.

It is essential that the sheep are healthy and have access to nutritious feed for the wool to reach the highest quality. If the sheep have been stressed, had poor grazing conditions, or limited access to water, this will be clearly reflected in the wool, making it unsuitable for use.

Lanolin

Have you ever run your hands through a sheep’s wool? If so, you may have noticed a greasy residue on your fingers. Wool naturally contains lanolin oil, which makes it quite oily.

Lanolin is beneficial for our skin, but in order to use wool in clothing and textiles, most of this oil needs to be removed.

Why and how is wool washed?

Wool is washed to remove dirt and to separate most of the natural lanolin. Since sheep graze freely, the wool collects dirt such as soil, sand, twigs, and other debris. In addition, the natural grease from lanolin must be reduced for the wool to be suitable for textile production.

The washing process takes place in large machines with six to eight baths. The first two to three contain warm water and detergent, while the remaining baths contain clean water. During this process, water-soluble impurities are removed. After washing, the wool is dried with warm air, and the lanolin is separated in a machine that spins out most of the oil, similar to a centrifuge.

What happens after washing?

After the lanolin has been removed, the wool is allowed to rest in a controlled environment to regain a balanced moisture level. It is then carded and combed in two stages, aligning the fibers in parallel. Remaining debris is removed, and shorter fibers are sorted out.

The combed wool is then formed into long strands known as wool tops. During this process, the wool is stretched several times, which reduces some of its natural crimp and prepares it for the next stage of production.

Step 3: Superwashbehandling

At high temperatures, the scales on wool fibers expand. If the wool is also agitated and processed in hot water, these scales interlock with each other. This is what causes wool to felt, meaning it mats together and becomes dense and stiff. When wool felts, it can shrink by 25–30%. Many people have experienced this after putting their favorite wool sweaters in the washing machine or tumble dryer. Once wool has felted, it cannot be reversed.

A treatment that makes wool machine washable

The reason some wool garments can be machine washed while others require hand washing is due to a treatment known as superwash. This process makes the wool more durable and prevents it from felting during washing.

The technology was developed in the 1950s, when washing machines became more common and the demand for machine-washable materials increased. To allow wool to compete with synthetic materials like polyester, methods were developed to improve its washability.

Hercosett – the most common method

The most common superwash method is called Hercosett, developed in the mid-1960s by an Australian wool company. The treatment is carried out in two steps.

First, the wool is immersed in large baths containing a water-based chlorine solution with about 3% chlorine. This process smooths the surface of the wool fiber, known as the cuticle scales, making them softer. The wool is then thoroughly rinsed to remove any chlorine.

In the second step, Hercosett 125, a water-resistant nylon-based polymer, is applied. It forms a thin coating over the cuticle scales, preventing them from expanding. As a result, the wool does not felt during washing. After treatment, the wool is dried and wound into bundles, known as bumps, weighing around 10 kilograms.

The treatment adds only a very thin layer to the wool fiber, meaning that wool’s natural moisture-absorbing and insulating properties are preserved.

Advantages of superwash

Superwash-treated wool is more durable and hard-wearing. It can be machine washed, even at higher temperatures. This is particularly important for garments used in professions where harmful bacteria may attach to clothing, such as in the armed forces.

The increased durability also contributes to a longer lifespan.

Environmental impact and responsibility

However, the treatment does have an environmental impact. In particular, there has been debate around the chlorine bath and the risk of releasing halogenated organic compounds, known as AOX, which can be harmful if discharged into nature.

AOX emissions can also come from other sources, such as the pulp and paper industry, waste management, wastewater treatment, and the chlorination of drinking water and swimming pools. Like most chemicals, AOX can have a significant environmental impact if released into the environment. Therefore, it is crucial that chlorine is handled in closed systems.

We maintain an ongoing dialogue and conduct regular visits with our producers to ensure that the wool we use comes from responsible processing, where no harmful waste is released into nature. At the same time, investigations are ongoing into alternatives to superwash treatment, with the goal of maintaining the same level of quality and care instructions as today.

Step 4: Dyeing Wool

After the wool has been washed, it is time to dye it and spin it into yarn. This is carried out by our supplier Südwolle, which has factories in Germany and Romania.

When the wool gets its color

Wool from merino sheep is naturally beige in color. While it is beautiful in its natural state, many people prefer garments with more color. To achieve this, the wool must be dyed.

The dyeing facility we use is located in Germany. The wool is placed in cylindrical dyeing vessels. In the center of each vessel is a holder that can be lifted, where the wool tops are placed. The wool is then lowered into the vessel, and a large lid is sealed on top. The wool is compressed under high pressure, and dye is injected into the cylinder.

To ensure the dye penetrates the entire fiber, the temperature is gradually increased from 20°C to around 100°C during the process. This causes the scales of the wool fibers to open, allowing the dye to fully penetrate.

To achieve the correct color, precise dye recipes are used. The dye is carefully weighed, and if the measurement deviates by more than 0.1% from the recipe, the scale reacts and the process must be repeated until it is exact. Once the correct amount is achieved, the dye is mixed with water. Precision is crucial, as wool cannot be re-dyed.

Once the wool has absorbed all the dye, it is washed and dried to regain its softness and loft. The initial washing is done using only water and a mild soap, and it takes place in the same vessel used for dyeing, which saves both water and energy.

Water treatment before release

Much of the natural lanolin in the wool has already been removed during earlier processing. However, without some level of oil, the wool can become dry and brittle. Therefore, a small amount of oil is reintroduced after dyeing to restore softness, similar to using conditioner after washing hair.

The wastewater generated during dyeing is collected in large tanks and treated at municipal water treatment facilities before being released.

After dyeing, the wool must be dried and combed again so that the fibers align in parallel. Once the wool is dyed, dried, and combed, different colors are blended to create the unique shades requested by customers. For example, our color Forest Green is made from a blend of two green shades along with gray and black. These blends are then sent to the spinning mill, where the wool yarn is produced.

Step 5: The Spinning Mill – Where the Yarn Is Finalized

Once the wool has been carded, washed, and dyed, it is time to spin it into yarn, the final step before it is delivered to us at Woolpower. The spinning mill is located in Romania, where around 12 tonnes of wool are spun into yarn every day.

The wool arrives from the dyehouses in large bales known as bumps. Before entering production, the wool is tested to determine whether any adjustments are needed for optimal machine performance. The following is checked:

• The remaining moisture content in the fiber

• The fiber length

The wool has already been tested several times earlier in the process, so issues at this stage are rare.

Blending for the right shade

Once the tests are completed and approved, the first step is to blend the dyed wool tops to achieve the exact shade required by Woolpower.

After blending, the wool is carded again to make it as fine as possible. This is done in several stages and using different machines to achieve the correct weight and thickness for the yarn.

A critical stage

In the first machine, the wool tops are separated and the fibers are aligned more parallel than before. The wool is then carded again, which is a critical step for achieving high yarn quality.

At this stage, dirt and short fibers are removed. The wool is then sent to a laboratory for analysis. If it is deemed clean enough, it proceeds to the next machine, which further draws out the fibers to make the wool sufficiently thin. Once the desired fineness is reached, the wool is wound onto a bobbin.

Before winding, the wool is fluffy and relatively thick (about 5 cm in diameter), but after being drawn out and wound onto the bobbin, it becomes much finer (around 0.5 cm in diameter) and begins to take on the form of yarn.

Spinning and steaming

At this point, the wool has its final color, impurities and short fibers have been removed, and it has been thinned to about 1 cm. Now comes the final step: spinning it into yarn.

The right twist

To create a fine yarn, the wool is drawn out further and twisted. This is done in a machine where rollers twist the wool in one direction. Once the wool has been thinned and twisted, it must be heated to stabilize it.

Wool is a natural material, and its fibers are affected by factors such as humidity. Heating helps control the fiber’s natural behavior and makes it suitable for knitting. This is done in a large chamber with high pressure and humidity. Without this step, the yarn would begin to untwist.

Finally, yarn

After spinning and steaming, the yarn must rest. Once it has rested for at least eight hours, it is wound onto cones, which is the final step. Each cone weighs approximately 1 kg.

As the yarn is wound onto cones, it is inspected one last time by a sensor. If any irregularities are detected, such as remaining debris, the machine stops and an operator removes the issue.

The machine then reconnects the yarn ends and continues winding. The cones are tested in a laboratory to ensure they meet requirements such as correct density.

Stabilization

Once approved, the yarn is heated one final time to stabilize it before being packed and shipped to our factory in Östersund.